Da Nang in the Rain: Vietnam’s Central Coast When the Monsoon Hits
I arrived in Da Nang during October flooding. What central Vietnam teaches you when the monsoon hits — and why Hoi An demands a return visit in dry season.
Surabaya and the Asia That No Longer Exists
I went to Surabaya because almost nobody goes to Surabaya. A travel essay about Indonesia’s overlooked second city and the Asia that existed before mass tourism transformed it.
Angkor Wat: I Saw It Almost Alone — And Why That Will Never Happen Again
I visited Angkor Wat five times between 2005 and 2013. The first time I was almost alone at sunrise. By 2012 there were five times as many tourists. See it before it changes further.